Why Honeymoon in Gjirokastër
It gives a beach honeymoon some depth. After days of swimming in Ksamil, a night in a mountain town with cooler evenings, castle views and a different kind of food feels like a real change.
The architecture is distinctive. The great tower houses, built for extended families, have thick stone lower floors and elegant reception rooms above. Zekate House, among the grandest, is open to visitors and has views over the whole city.
The town also tells a strong story. It was the birthplace of the communist dictator Enver Hoxha and of Ismail Kadare, Albania's best-known novelist, whose book Chronicle in Stone is set here.
Prices are very low. The town is calm, friendly and easy to walk around.
When to Go
May, June, September and October are the most comfortable months. Days are warm, evenings are cool in the mountains and it is easy to combine the town with beach time on the coast.
July and August are hot in the valley, though evenings in the old town are pleasant. It is also the busiest time on the coast, so Gjirokastër can be a welcome escape.
Spring brings green hillsides and wildflowers. Autumn is good for walking to Antigonea and exploring the valley.
Winter is cold, wet and quiet, with some guesthouses and restaurants closed. Snow occasionally dusts the surrounding mountains.
Where to Stay
Stay in the old town, close to the bazaar. Many guesthouses and small hotels occupy restored stone houses, some with terraces that look across the valley.
Kotoni B&B, a family-run guesthouse near the bazaar, is a long-standing favorite with travelers for its warm welcome and traditional rooms.
Other boutique stays in the Palorto and bazaar areas mix original stonework with modern bathrooms. Ask for a room with a view, since some face the street.
The new town below the hill has larger, cheaper hotels, but the walk up is steep and you lose the atmosphere.
Check whether your guesthouse has parking or can help with luggage, since the lanes are narrow, steep and cobbled.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk up to the castle in the late afternoon. Explore the long vaulted galleries and the old cannons, then watch the sun set over the Drino Valley.
Tour Zekate House and Skenduli House to see how wealthy families once lived, with painted ceilings and carved woodwork.
Visit the Cold War tunnel beneath the town, a vast bunker built for officials in case of attack. It is a strange but memorable insight into Albania's past.
Wander the old bazaar for handmade carpets, carved stone and local honey.
Hike or drive to Antigonea, the ruins of an ancient city on a hilltop east of town, for views and quiet.
On the way to the coast, stop at the Blue Eye, a deep spring of intensely blue water in the woods.
Getting There and Around
Tirana International Airport (TIA) is about three and a half hours by car. Many couples come from the south instead: fly into Corfu (CFU) in Greece, take a ferry to Sarandë and drive or take a bus to Gjirokastër in about an hour and a quarter. Check ferry schedules, which change by season.
Buses run between Gjirokastër and Tirana and between Gjirokastër and Sarandë. They are inexpensive but can be slow.
A rental car is the best way to combine the town, the Blue Eye and the beaches. Roads are mostly fine, but drive defensively and avoid mountain roads after dark.
In town, walk. Taxis are cheap if you want a ride up the steep hill from the new town.
Food and Drink
Gjirokastër has its own dishes. Try qifqi, fried rice balls flavored with egg and fresh herbs, a local specialty. Look out too for pashtëllëk, a local meat pie. Cornmeal dishes baked with greens are common as well.
Restaurants in the old town serve grilled lamb, slow-cooked meats, fresh salads, local cheeses and plenty of olive oil. Portions are generous and prices low.
Raki is everywhere, often homemade and offered as a welcome. Local wines from southern Albania are worth trying, along with Albanian beer.
Many guesthouses serve big homemade breakfasts with fresh bread, eggs, honey and fruit. Do not plan a big lunch on those mornings.
Honeymoon Tips
Wear shoes with grip. The cobbled lanes are steep and can be slippery, especially after rain.
One or two nights is enough for most couples. Use it as a cultural stop between the beaches and Berat or Tirana.
Bring cash in Albanian lek. Smaller guesthouses and shops may not take cards.
The US State Department rates Albania Level 2, exercise increased caution, mainly due to crime. Gjirokastër feels safe and relaxed, but use normal precautions.
Dress modestly in mosques and churches.
Pair Gjirokastër with Ksamil for beaches and with Berat for a second Ottoman-era town. Together they make a strong week in southern Albania.
