Hell Bay Hotel is the place to stay in the Isles of Scilly if you want the wildest, most romantic corner of England. It stands on the Atlantic side of Bryher, the smallest inhabited island in the archipelago. It calls itself England's most westerly hotel. Out front, rocks, heather and white sand give way to open ocean. In a storm the waves crash white against the headlands. On a calm evening the sun sets straight into the sea.
All 25 rooms are suites, most with sea views from a balcony or terrace. The restaurant holds three AA rosettes, the only one in Scilly with that rating. It focuses on local fish and farm produce under head chef Richard Kearsley. There is a bar and terrace for sundowners, The Crab Shack for a casual seafood feast, a pool, a garden yoga studio and a treatment shed.
It suits couples who love the coast, walking and good seafood but also want a few days off the grid without giving up comfort. The hotel closes in winter, so plan your trip between late March and the autumn.
Highlights at a glance
- England's most westerly hotel on wild Bryher
- 25 suites, most with sea views and balconies
- 3 AA rosette restaurant with daily-changing menus
- The Crab Shack for casual seafood feasts
- Pool, garden yoga studio and Treatment Shed
Why Couples Love Hell Bay
The setting is unlike anywhere else in England. Bryher is tiny, with fewer than a hundred residents, no traffic to speak of and a coastline you can walk in a few hours. On one side, calm channels and sandy beaches face Tresco. On the other, where Hell Bay stands, the Atlantic rolls in with nothing between you and North America.
That contrast gives every day a different mood. Mornings might be bright and still, ideal for swimming in clear turquoise water. Afternoons can bring sea mist or dramatic squalls you watch from the bar with a drink. The hotel has a relaxed, beach-house feel, with light interiors, local art and staff who know the island well. Couples often say they arrive tired and leave feeling years younger.
Suites to Book for a Honeymoon
All 25 rooms are suites. Most have a balcony or terrace. The best choices for couples:
- First Floor Studio Suites, open plan with uninterrupted ocean views and a private balcony.
- First Floor High Tide Suites, with sea views from every window and a separate sitting room.
- First Floor Spring Tide Suite, with a large balcony looking across the grounds to the sea.
- Juno, upstairs in the boathouse, with panoramic sea views and a large balcony.
The Emperor Suite, with two bedrooms and a large private terrace facing the ocean, is the signature splurge. For a honeymoon, choose a first-floor suite with a sea view and balcony; it is the reason to come. Several ground-floor suites are dog-friendly and some face the garden rather than the sea, so check the outlook carefully when booking.
Food, Drink and Relaxing
The restaurant is the heart of an evening at Hell Bay. Head chef Richard Kearsley writes daily-changing menus built around local fish, shellfish and farm produce from the islands. It holds three AA rosettes, the only restaurant in Scilly with that rating. Lunch is open to non-guests daily, so book ahead for busy days.
The Bar & Terrace is the place for sundowners. The Crab Shack offers a more casual seafood experience, with crab and lobster eaten with your hands. For relaxation, there is a pool, a garden yoga studio and The Treatment Shed for massages and therapies. A lazy afternoon of reading by the pool, a treatment and dinner is a perfectly good honeymoon day here.
Why guests fall for it
Things to Do
Walking is the main activity. A loop of Bryher takes in rugged headlands, the Great Pool, sheltered beaches and Shipman Head on the northern tip. Popplestones beach, near the hotel, is a fine spot for sunset. Island-hopping boats run to Tresco, with its Abbey Garden, as well as to St Agnes, St Martin's and St Mary's, each with its own character.
One of you might want to kayak or paddleboard in the calm channels while the other heads out on a wildlife boat trip to see seals, puffins in early summer and seabirds. Sea swimming is beautiful but cold, even in August. Currents can be strong around the headlands. Stick to sheltered beaches and swim only in calm conditions. Pack waterproofs and layers for both of you, since weather changes quickly.
Getting There
Reaching Bryher is part of the adventure. The quickest route is by Penzance Helicopters to Tresco, then a five-minute boat across to Bryher. Skybus flies to St Mary's from Land's End (about 20 minutes) and Newquay (about 30 minutes) year-round, plus Exeter (about one hour) in summer. The Scillonian III ferry sails from Penzance to St Mary's in about 2 hours 45 minutes.
From St Mary's, take the shuttle to the quay, then the inter-island boat to Bryher. Tell the hotel your plans and staff will meet you off the boat and drive you the last half mile by 4x4. Luggage limits are strict on small planes and helicopters, so pack light. Weather can delay crossings, so leave time before onward connections.
Is It Worth It?
For couples who love the sea, walking and seafood, yes. Few places in England feel this remote. The hotel pairs that wildness with comfortable suites and one of the best restaurants in the southwest. Rates are high for the UK, which reflects the logistics of island life.
It is not for couples who want nightlife, shopping or a big spa. Families and dogs are welcome, so the hotel is lively in school holidays. The journey takes time and can be disrupted by weather. Couples who want a classic resort should look elsewhere. Those who want the island experience at lower cost can choose a self-catering cottage on St Mary's and visit Bryher for lunch.
Insider tips
- Book a first-floor suite with an uninterrupted ocean view.
- Fly by helicopter to Tresco for the fastest, most scenic arrival.
- Reserve a night at The Crab Shack for a hands-on seafood dinner.
- Visit in May or June for wildflowers, puffins and long evenings.
