Why Honeymoon in Nuwara Eliya
The appeal is atmosphere. Few places in tropical Asia let you wake to mist rolling over tea fields, walk through cool cloud forest and end the day with a fire and a gin and tonic in a colonial lounge.
The tea country offers some of Sri Lanka's most romantic stays. Old planters' bungalows have been restored as small hotels with butlers, gardens and long verandas. Meals are served at a shared or private table. The staff often know the estate's history.
There is also good walking. Horton Plains, a high plateau of grassland and cloud forest, leads to World's End, where the land drops away by about 2,600 feet. Waterfalls line the roads. Estate walks pass tea pickers at work. Couples who enjoy hiking, photography or simply slow mornings will be happy here.
When to Go
January to April is generally the best period, with clearer skies, dry days and cold nights. Daytime temperatures are usually in the 60s Fahrenheit, while nights can drop into the 40s. Pack warm layers.
April is the busiest month in Nuwara Eliya itself. Around the Sinhala and Tamil New Year, Sri Lankan families flock to the hills for horse races, flower shows and festivities. Hotels fill and prices rise sharply.
From May to September, the southwest monsoon brings rain, wind and mist to the western side of the hills, including Hatton. October and November can also be wet. The tea country stays green and beautiful year-round, but views from Horton Plains and Adam's Peak are best in the dry months. Adam's Peak's pilgrimage season runs roughly December to May.
Where to Stay
For the full tea country experience, look at Ceylon Tea Trails near Hatton, a collection of restored planters' bungalows on estates around Castlereagh Lake. Stays are all-inclusive, with meals, drinks and estate walks included. Service is personal and attentive.
Heritance Tea Factory, in the hills near Kandapola outside Nuwara Eliya, is a converted 1930s tea factory with machinery still in place and views over the plantations. It is a memorable choice for couples interested in how tea is made.
In town, the Grand Hotel is a historic mock-Tudor building that was once a governor's residence. Jetwing St. Andrew's has colonial charm, gardens and log fires. Smaller boutique bungalows and guesthouses around the lake and the hills offer good value with fireplaces and garden views.
Romantic Things to Do
Set off before dawn for Horton Plains National Park, about an hour from town. The loop walk leads to World's End and Baker's Falls. Arrive early, before mist rises from the valleys and hides the view.
Tour a tea factory, such as Pedro Estate near town, to see leaves withered, rolled and dried. Then taste the results with a view over the hills. Walk through the estates and talk with the pickers if a guide can translate.
Take the train for a stretch of the hill country line from Nanu Oya or Hatton, past waterfalls and tea gardens. Visit Hakgala Botanical Garden, known for its roses and ferns. Stop at Ramboda Falls on the road from Kandy.
For a challenge, climb Adam's Peak from Dalhousie through the night to watch sunrise from the summit with pilgrims.
Getting There and Around
Nuwara Eliya is about five to six hours by car from Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) and about two and a half to three hours from Kandy. Hatton is a similar distance from Colombo. Most couples arrive with a hired car and driver as part of a highland route.
The hill country train is the scenic way to arrive. The nearest station to Nuwara Eliya is Nanu Oya, about four miles from town, while Hatton has its own station for the tea bungalows. Reserved seats sell out early, so book ahead.
Roads in the hills are narrow and winding. Travel times are longer than distances suggest. Allow plenty of time and avoid driving after dark. In town, tuk-tuks are cheap for short trips.
Food and Drink
Tea is the obvious highlight. Estate bungalows serve their own leaf with breakfast and in the afternoon, often with cakes and sandwiches in true planter tradition. Tasting tea where it grows is a different experience from a tea bag at home.
The cool climate also grows vegetables seen rarely in the lowlands, such as leeks, carrots and cabbages, which find their way into excellent local curries. Bungalow kitchens often cook a mix of Sri Lankan dishes and colonial classics such as roast dinners and puddings.
In the evening, enjoy a gin and tonic by the fire at a historic hotel. The Hill Club, an old colonial members' club, has a formal dining tradition, so check whether it takes visitors and what to wear. Bring a warm jacket for evenings out.
Honeymoon Tips
Pack warm clothes. A fleece, a waterproof jacket and long trousers are essential, especially for early starts at Horton Plains.
Book early if you are visiting in April or on long weekends, when the town fills with domestic visitors.
At over 6,000 feet, some people feel slightly breathless on hills at first. Go easy on the first day and drink plenty of water.
Leeches can appear on forest and estate trails after rain, so wear long socks and closed shoes.
The US State Department rates Sri Lanka Level 2, Exercise Increased Caution. The hills are generally relaxed and safe for visitors.
Two nights in Nuwara Eliya or two to three nights on a Hatton tea estate is ideal. Combine with Kandy and Ella for a highland route.
