Why Honeymoon in Rodrigues
Couples who come to Rodrigues usually say the same thing: it feels like stepping back in time. There are no big resorts, no shopping malls and very little traffic. Life is shaped by the tides and the supply boats from Mauritius.
That makes it a good antidote to the polished resort scene. You can spend the day hiking along cliffs to a deserted cove, eat a home-cooked lunch at a farmhouse and watch the sunset from a hillside with nobody else in sight. The island has a strong environmental streak, with a ban on plastic bags and protected marine reserves.
It is also very affordable compared with Mauritius. The tradeoff is comfort and polish. Rooms are simple, restaurants are few and some things close early. Couples who value calm over luxury will love it. Those who need spa menus and room service should keep it short or skip it.
When to Go
September to November is the best stretch. September and October are usually the driest months, the sea is calm enough for boat trips and the temperatures are comfortable for hiking. December is warm and still good before the summer rains build.
From May to August the island is cooler and the trade winds are strong. That is peak season for kitesurfers, but the wind can make boat trips rough and evenings chilly by tropical standards.
January to April is hot and humid, with February the wettest month. Cyclones are a risk from November to April. Because Rodrigues is so small and remote, a storm can disrupt flights for days. Build some flexibility into your plans if you visit in summer. Avoid booking a tight connection back to the US.
Where to Stay
Accommodation is small scale. A handful of beach hotels sit on the east and southeast coasts, especially around Anse aux Anglais, Pointe Coton and Mourouk. They offer pools, simple restaurants and lagoon views but nothing close to a Mauritian five-star.
Many visitors choose family guesthouses, called chambres d'hôtes or tables d'hôtes. They are inexpensive, often include breakfast and dinner and give you a window into local life. Some sit on hillsides with sea views, others near the beach.
Self-catering bungalows are another option, handy for longer stays. Wherever you book, check whether meals are included, since restaurants are spread out and many close early. Ask about air conditioning and hot water as well, which are not guaranteed in budget places. A rental car or scooter makes more remote guesthouses easier to manage.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the coastal path between Graviers and Saint François on the east coast. It passes a string of small coves, including Trou d'Argent, a sheltered pocket of sand between cliffs that many consider the island's prettiest beach. Allow a few hours and bring water.
Take a boat to Île aux Cocos, a protected islet where fairy terns and noddies nest in the casuarinas. Guided trips include a swim and a picnic lunch on the sand.
Visit the François Leguat Giant Tortoise Reserve, where thousands of tortoises roam a rewilded valley with caves you can explore. Go snorkeling or diving on the outer reef, where the water is clear and the corals in good shape.
At low tide, join a local guide to watch the octopus fishing on the reef flats. End the day on the hill above Port Mathurin with the lights coming on below.
Getting There and Around
Air Mauritius operates the flights between Mauritius and Plaine Corail Airport, typically taking about an hour and a half. Seats can sell out in holiday periods, so book them when you book your international tickets. A passenger ship also sails from Port Louis, but the crossing takes over a day and the schedule is limited.
From the airport in the southwest, transfers to the main beach areas take roughly 30 to 45 minutes over winding hill roads. Most hotels and guesthouses arrange pickups.
Renting a car or scooter is the best way to explore, though roads are narrow and steep with sharp bends. Drive on the left. Buses connect the main villages and Port Mathurin at low cost, but service thins out in the afternoon. Taxis are available and can be hired for half-day tours.
Food and Drink
Rodrigues has its own cooking style, simpler and more rustic than Mauritius. Octopus is the star: dried, then cooked in curry or served as a salad with lime and chili. Fresh fish, lobster and crab are common in season.
Meals often include red beans, rice, maize and local sausages. Look for the island's small yellow chilies, preserved as pickles. The local lemons are smaller and sharper than the usual kind.
For dessert, try tourte rodriguaise, a pastry filled with papaya or coconut. Cakes made with local honey are another treat. The Saturday market in Port Mathurin is the best place to taste all of this, along with fruit and street snacks.
Restaurants are mostly casual and many close by 9 p.m. Family tables d'hôtes, where you eat what the host cooked that day, are often the best meals on the island.
Honeymoon Tips
Give it at least three nights. Flights take time and the island's charm is in slowing down, so a quick overnight trip misses the point.
Carry cash in rupees. ATMs exist in Port Mathurin, but many guesthouses and small businesses prefer cash.
Plan boat trips around the tide and the wind. Operators know the conditions well, so be ready to shift your plans by a day.
Pack sturdy shoes for the hikes and a light jacket for the windy months. Bring any medicine you need, as pharmacies are limited.
Respect the local pace. Shops close early, Sunday is quiet and people greet each other on the road. A friendly bonzour and patience go a long way.
Book a last night in Mauritius before flying home, in case a Rodrigues flight is delayed.
