Why Honeymoon in the Perhentians
Couples who love the water will get the most from these islands. You can walk off the beach in many spots and be over coral within a few kicks. Boat trips to turtle and shark sites take only minutes. Diving is affordable, so it is a good place for one of you to try a first open water course while the other snorkels.
The pace is a big part of the appeal. With no traffic, no malls and patchy Wi-Fi, days fall into a rhythm of morning swims, long lunches, a nap through the heat and drinks as the light goes.
The two islands also let you choose your mood. Perhentian Besar, the big island, is quieter with calmer bays. Perhentian Kecil, the small island, has the backpacker scene at Long Beach and a sunset view from Coral Bay. You can stay on one and visit the other by water taxi in a few minutes.
When to Go
The islands follow the northeast monsoon. From roughly November to February, seas are rough, rain is frequent and most resorts, restaurants and boat services close. Do not plan a visit then.
The season usually begins in March, with many places fully open by April. April to June often brings the best combination of calm water, good visibility and fewer crowds. July and August are busier, including school holiday traffic from Malaysia and Europe, so book the better rooms early.
September and October are still workable, with more chance of rain toward the end. Several resorts shut in late October.
Malaysian public holidays and weekends fill the islands quickly, especially around Hari Raya at the end of Ramadan. The dates move each year, so check them against your plans. Water temperature stays warm all season, around the mid 80s Fahrenheit.
Where to Stay
For a honeymoon, most couples are happier on Perhentian Besar. Its west coast beaches are cleaner and calmer than Kecil's busy Long Beach. The resorts there tend to suit people who want quiet evenings. Perhentian Island Resort is one of the larger, more established hotels on the big island, with its own beach and a reef in front.
On Kecil, Coral Bay has the best sunsets and an easy walk to Long Beach. A few small resorts in the quieter coves offer more comfort than the backpacker chalets along Long Beach.
Across both islands, expect simple design, air conditioning in better rooms, occasional power cuts and hot water that may be lukewarm. Read recent reviews closely and look for rooms right above the sand.
Book ahead for weekends and July to August. Many places only release rooms for the season once they confirm their opening date, so watch for that in early spring.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a half-day snorkel trip that visits Shark Point, Turtle Point and the coral garden off Besar. Turtles feed on seagrass near the shore. Guides often know the reliable spots. Wear a rash guard, since the sun reflects hard off the water.
Take a water taxi to a beach you have to yourselves for the afternoon. Arrange a pickup time with the driver and bring a picnic.
Watch sunset from Coral Bay on Kecil, where vendors set up beanbags and cold drinks on the sand.
Try a night dive or, on dark nights, swim among bioluminescent plankton with a guide.
If one of you is curious about diving, a discover dive or a full open water course costs far less here than in much of the world. Dive shops are plentiful and many are long established.
Getting There and Around
Fly from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Bharu (KBR), which takes about an hour. A taxi to the Kuala Besut jetty takes around an hour. Kuala Terengganu airport is an alternative, about an hour and a half from the jetty by road.
Speedboats run from Kuala Besut roughly every hour from early morning until about 5 pm and take 30 to 45 minutes. Arriving after the last scheduled boat means paying for a private charter, so book an early flight. Boats drop you at your resort's beach or jetty. Pack light and use a soft bag, since you may wade ashore.
A marine park conservation fee is charged at the jetty and covers your stay.
On the islands, everything is on foot or by water taxi. Fares are fixed or negotiated per trip and are cheap for short hops. Some jungle paths link bays but get muddy after rain.
Food and Drink
Meals are simple and mostly good. Expect barbecued fish and squid on the beach at night, Malay rice and noodle dishes, curries and a fair amount of pancakes and pasta for the backpacker crowd. Resort restaurants on Besar tend to be pricier but more consistent.
The islands lie in Terengganu, one of Malaysia's more conservative states. Muslim-owned restaurants do not serve alcohol, though many allow you to bring your own. Beer is sold at a handful of resorts and at the bars around Long Beach and Coral Bay, usually at higher prices than on the mainland. Bring duty-free if it matters to you.
Drink bottled or filtered water. Some resorts offer refill stations to reduce plastic waste.
Cash is essential. There are very few cash machines, cards are accepted in limited places and some add a surcharge, so carry enough ringgit from the mainland.
Honeymoon Tips
Bring more cash than you think you need. Withdrawing on the island is difficult and expensive.
Pack reef-safe sunscreen, a rash guard and your own snorkel mask if you have a favorite. Rental gear is cheap but can be worn.
Expect power cuts. A small battery pack and a headlamp make evenings easier.
Skip speedboats and water taxis run by unlicensed operators. Use your resort or established dive shops for trips.
Swimwear is fine on resort beaches, but cover shoulders and knees when you walk through the fishing village on Kecil or wait at the Kuala Besut jetty. This is a conservative state, for men as well as women.
Mosquito repellent is essential in the evening, especially in rooms near the jungle edge.
If you want luxury touches, plan to finish your trip with a couple of nights in Kuala Lumpur or Penang. A modest room here, followed by a big hotel bath in the city, makes a satisfying final stretch.
