St. John and Virgin Gorda in 8 Days

National park beaches first, then granite boulders and a boat-only resort.

8 days2 stops
Original illustration
At a glance

Four nights on St. John in the US Virgin Islands and three on Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands, linked by a boat ride of about an hour. It suits couples who want clear water, easy snorkeling and a mix of villa freedom and resort polish. December to May is best, with May and June good value.

St. John and Virgin Gorda make an 8-day Caribbean honeymoon with almost no wasted time. The two islands sit about 15 miles apart, one in the US Virgin Islands and one in the British Virgin Islands, so you change countries by boat rather than by plane.

You start with four nights on St. John, where about 60 percent of the land is Virgin Islands National Park. The north shore is a chain of white sand bays with turtles grazing in the shallows and very few buildings. Days follow a simple loop of morning snorkeling, a hike or a nap, then a deck for sunset.

Then you cross to Virgin Gorda for three nights. Its southern tip is The Baths, where granite boulders the size of houses form caves and pools along the shore. Its northern end is North Sound, a sheltered harbor ringed by reefs and resorts you reach only by boat. That is where the splurge goes.

Go from December to May for dry weather. May and June bring warm water and lower rates.

The route

  1. St. JohnU.S. Virgin Islands · 4 nights
  2. Virgin GordaBritish Virgin Islands · 3 nights
Best months
December to May; May and June for value
Trip length
8 days
Budget
About $450–1,500 a night for two, more at the top Virgin Gorda resorts (approximate)

Day by day

Days 1–2: St. John and the North Shore

Fly into Cyril E. King Airport (STT) on St. Thomas. Take a taxi of about 30 to 45 minutes to Red Hook, then the passenger ferry of about 20 minutes to Cruz Bay. Pick up your jeep, stock the villa fridge at a Cruz Bay market and find somewhere with a view for your first sunset.

On day two, go early. Drive the North Shore Road to Trunk Bay before 9 a.m. and follow the underwater snorkel trail around Trunk Cay, reading the plaques about coral and fish as you swim. Cinnamon Bay next door is quieter for a long swim. Have lunch in Cruz Bay, nap through the heat and come back out for sunset drinks in town.

Days 3–4: Turtles, Ruins and Ram Head

Day three is the one couples remember. Reach Maho Bay early, when the water is glassy. Wade in to watch green turtles cropping the seagrass a few feet away. Keep a respectful distance and let them surface. Continue to the Annaberg sugar mill ruins, where the stone windmill looks over the channel to Tortola. Walk the shoreline path to Leinster Bay and swim out to Waterlemon Cay for healthier coral and the chance of an eagle ray.

On day four, slow down. Spend the morning by your villa pool, then drive to Coral Bay for lunch. In the late afternoon, cross the blue cobble beach at Salt Pond and climb to Ram Head, the windy headland on the south shore, as the light softens. It is short but hot, so bring water and wear proper shoes. Pack that night and keep your passports where you can find them.

Days 5–6: Virgin Gorda and The Baths

Take a ferry or private water taxi from Cruz Bay to Virgin Gorda, a trip of about an hour depending on the route. Some services run direct on certain days, while others go via Tortola. Your Virgin Gorda resort can usually arrange the transfer, which is far easier with luggage. Settle in and take the afternoon off.

On day six, be at The Baths when they open. Walk the trail through the boulders to Devil's Bay, using the ladders and ropes. Swim in the sunlit pools along the way. It is the romantic moment of Virgin Gorda, especially before the day boats arrive. Afterward, snorkel the calmer water at Spring Bay and The Crawl just north. Spend the evening on the beach at your hotel, or drive up to Hog Heaven for barbecue and a long view over North Sound.

Days 7–8: North Sound and Home

Make day seven a boat day. Many North Sound resorts include kayaks, paddleboards or small sailboats. Hire a captain to visit Prickly Pear Island and the reefs of Eustatia Sound, with a swim stop and lunch at a beach bar. Late in the day, head to the Copper Mine ruins on the southeastern tip, where the stone chimney turns gold at sunset. Book your splurge dinner for tonight with a table on the sand.

On day eight, fly out of Beef Island (EIS) on Tortola, usually with a connection, or take a boat back to St. Thomas for your flight from STT. Ask your resort to time the transfer to your flight and allow plenty of margin.

Getting Between Stops

Fly into St. Thomas (STT), which has nonstop flights from many East Coast and Southern hubs. The flight from Miami takes about two and a half hours and from New York about four. Taxis run to Red Hook in 30 to 45 minutes. Ferries then cross to Cruz Bay on St. John about hourly in a crossing of around 20 minutes.

The hop to Virgin Gorda is the only tricky part. Public ferries link St. John and the BVI on set schedules, often via Tortola. Timings change by season. A private water taxi costs far more but goes when you want, meets you at the dock and handles luggage. Bring your passports, since you cross between two countries.

To go home, fly from Beef Island (EIS) on Tortola, which usually means a connection in San Juan or Miami, or ride back to St. Thomas and fly from STT.

Where to Stay

On St. John, a rented villa with a pool and a view toward the BVI is often the best honeymoon choice. Look in the hills above Cruz Bay, Chocolate Hole or Great Cruz Bay for quick access to town. Gallows Point Resort sits on the point by the Cruz Bay ferry dock with suites you can walk from. The Westin St. John occupies Great Cruz Bay. For something different, Lovango Resort + Beach Club sits on a small island just off St. John and is reached by boat.

On Virgin Gorda, Rosewood Little Dix Bay sits on a long crescent beach near Spanish Town and is the easiest base for The Baths. Oil Nut Bay, on the eastern tip, is the splurge for couples who want privacy and space. Saba Rock is a small, casual island hotel in North Sound.

When to Go

December to May is the most reliable season for both islands, with dry air, steady trade winds and highs in the low 80s Fahrenheit. It is also when St. John villas book out months ahead and jeep rentals become scarce. Plan early for a winter wedding.

May and June are excellent and often overlooked. The sea is warmer, rates drop and the beaches are emptier. Early July is similar, though the St. John Festival around the Fourth of July makes Cruz Bay busy.

August to October is the heart of hurricane season. Storms are not certain, but many restaurants and some resorts close for weeks in September or October and ferries may run fewer boats. November is a reasonable shoulder month as businesses reopen, with lower prices before the holiday rush.

Budget and Booking

Book in this order: your Virgin Gorda resort, your St. John villa or hotel, the jeep on St. John and then the boat between the islands. Jeeps sell out in winter, so reserve one as soon as your villa is confirmed.

As an approximate guide, a one-bedroom villa with a pool on St. John often runs about $400 to $900 a night in winter and less in early summer. Rosewood Little Dix Bay and Oil Nut Bay usually cost well over $1,000 a night in high season. Food is expensive on both islands because almost everything arrives by boat.

A private water taxi between the islands is a real expense, though some couples count it as a wedding gift to themselves. Ask your Virgin Gorda resort whether its packages include transfers, boat days or included activities in North Sound.

Staying Comfortable and Safe

Snorkel in the morning, when the water is calmest and visibility is best. Wear a rash guard and use reef-safe mineral sunscreen, since several chemical sunscreen ingredients are banned in the US Virgin Islands. Never stand on coral or touch turtles.

At The Baths, wear water shoes or sandals with grip. The rocks are slippery and the trail to Devil's Bay includes ladders and tight squeezes. Skip it if the surf is up and staff have closed the beach.

St. John's roads are steep, narrow and full of switchbacks. Traffic keeps left. Drive slowly, especially after dark. Watch for donkeys and goats on the road. Mosquitoes can carry dengue in the islands. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices before you book.

Make It Shorter or Longer

For a six-day trip, stay on St. John for five nights and book a private boat day to Virgin Gorda's The Baths and Jost Van Dyke instead of changing islands. You keep the best snorkeling and lose one round of packing.

For ten or eleven days, add three nights on Jost Van Dyke between the two islands for beach bars, small hotels and almost no roads, or simply stay longer in North Sound for more boat days.

Couples who care more about resort comfort than villa life can reverse the balance: three nights on St. John at Gallows Point or Lovango, then four on Virgin Gorda. You trade a little freedom for more time with someone else cooking.

FAQ

Planning this trip

How do we get from St. John to Virgin Gorda?

Take a public ferry or a private water taxi. Public boats run on set schedules, sometimes direct and often via Tortola. The trip takes about an hour. A private water taxi costs more but leaves when you want. Your resort can usually arrange it. Bring your passports.

Is St. John or Virgin Gorda better for a honeymoon?

They suit different moods, which is why this route pairs them. St. John is national park, villa life and easy snorkeling from the beach. Virgin Gorda has The Baths and polished resorts in North Sound reached by boat. Doing both gives you freedom first and pampering second.

Do we need a car on both islands?

On St. John, yes. A jeep or small SUV is the easiest way to reach the north shore beaches. Book it early. On Virgin Gorda, many couples manage with resort boats and taxis, renting a car only for a day around The Baths and the Copper Mine.

When is the best time to visit The Baths?

Go right when the site opens or late in the afternoon. Midday brings day boats and groups from Tortola, especially on cruise ship days. Calm, dry months from December to May are best, when the water is clear and swell rarely closes the beach.

What is the splurge on this itinerary?

The Virgin Gorda resort, especially Oil Nut Bay or Rosewood Little Dix Bay, plus a private boat day in North Sound. If you need to save, stay at a simpler St. John villa and spend on the last three nights.

Stops on this route

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