Getting Between Stops
Fly into St. Thomas (STT), which has nonstop flights from many East Coast and Southern hubs. The flight from Miami takes about two and a half hours and from New York about four. Taxis run to Red Hook in 30 to 45 minutes. Ferries then cross to Cruz Bay on St. John about hourly in a crossing of around 20 minutes.
The hop to Virgin Gorda is the only tricky part. Public ferries link St. John and the BVI on set schedules, often via Tortola. Timings change by season. A private water taxi costs far more but goes when you want, meets you at the dock and handles luggage. Bring your passports, since you cross between two countries.
To go home, fly from Beef Island (EIS) on Tortola, which usually means a connection in San Juan or Miami, or ride back to St. Thomas and fly from STT.
Where to Stay
On St. John, a rented villa with a pool and a view toward the BVI is often the best honeymoon choice. Look in the hills above Cruz Bay, Chocolate Hole or Great Cruz Bay for quick access to town. Gallows Point Resort sits on the point by the Cruz Bay ferry dock with suites you can walk from. The Westin St. John occupies Great Cruz Bay. For something different, Lovango Resort + Beach Club sits on a small island just off St. John and is reached by boat.
On Virgin Gorda, Rosewood Little Dix Bay sits on a long crescent beach near Spanish Town and is the easiest base for The Baths. Oil Nut Bay, on the eastern tip, is the splurge for couples who want privacy and space. Saba Rock is a small, casual island hotel in North Sound.
When to Go
December to May is the most reliable season for both islands, with dry air, steady trade winds and highs in the low 80s Fahrenheit. It is also when St. John villas book out months ahead and jeep rentals become scarce. Plan early for a winter wedding.
May and June are excellent and often overlooked. The sea is warmer, rates drop and the beaches are emptier. Early July is similar, though the St. John Festival around the Fourth of July makes Cruz Bay busy.
August to October is the heart of hurricane season. Storms are not certain, but many restaurants and some resorts close for weeks in September or October and ferries may run fewer boats. November is a reasonable shoulder month as businesses reopen, with lower prices before the holiday rush.
Budget and Booking
Book in this order: your Virgin Gorda resort, your St. John villa or hotel, the jeep on St. John and then the boat between the islands. Jeeps sell out in winter, so reserve one as soon as your villa is confirmed.
As an approximate guide, a one-bedroom villa with a pool on St. John often runs about $400 to $900 a night in winter and less in early summer. Rosewood Little Dix Bay and Oil Nut Bay usually cost well over $1,000 a night in high season. Food is expensive on both islands because almost everything arrives by boat.
A private water taxi between the islands is a real expense, though some couples count it as a wedding gift to themselves. Ask your Virgin Gorda resort whether its packages include transfers, boat days or included activities in North Sound.
Staying Comfortable and Safe
Snorkel in the morning, when the water is calmest and visibility is best. Wear a rash guard and use reef-safe mineral sunscreen, since several chemical sunscreen ingredients are banned in the US Virgin Islands. Never stand on coral or touch turtles.
At The Baths, wear water shoes or sandals with grip. The rocks are slippery and the trail to Devil's Bay includes ladders and tight squeezes. Skip it if the surf is up and staff have closed the beach.
St. John's roads are steep, narrow and full of switchbacks. Traffic keeps left. Drive slowly, especially after dark. Watch for donkeys and goats on the road. Mosquitoes can carry dengue in the islands. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices before you book.
Make It Shorter or Longer
For a six-day trip, stay on St. John for five nights and book a private boat day to Virgin Gorda's The Baths and Jost Van Dyke instead of changing islands. You keep the best snorkeling and lose one round of packing.
For ten or eleven days, add three nights on Jost Van Dyke between the two islands for beach bars, small hotels and almost no roads, or simply stay longer in North Sound for more boat days.
Couples who care more about resort comfort than villa life can reverse the balance: three nights on St. John at Gallows Point or Lovango, then four on Virgin Gorda. You trade a little freedom for more time with someone else cooking.