Getting Between Stops
Naples to Capri is a hydrofoil of about 50 minutes from the Molo Beverello port. Capri to Positano or Amalfi is a ferry of under an hour in season. Book ahead in summer.
Amalfi Coast to Puglia is the long day. A private driver takes about four to five hours depending on traffic, more with a stop in Matera. You can also take the train from Salerno, changing toward Bari, but it is slower and less comfortable with luggage.
Do not drive yourselves on the Amalfi Coast. The road is narrow and congested, with summer restrictions on non-resident vehicles. Use ferries, buses and private drivers instead.
In Puglia, rent a car. The masserie, beaches and towns are spread out. Public transport is limited. Historic centers are closed to traffic and enforced by cameras, so park at the edge and walk in.
Where to Stay
On Capri, Hotel Punta Tragara sits on a quiet bluff above the Faraglioni. J.K. Place Capri has a stylish beach-house feel above Marina Grande. Hotel Caesar Augustus in Anacapri has a famous cliff-edge terrace. Family-run guesthouses in both towns offer good value.
On the Amalfi Coast, Le Sirenuse in Positano is the classic, with candlelit dinners and the town at your feet. Hotel Santa Caterina, just outside Amalfi, has elevators to a private beach club. Caruso, A Belmond Hotel, crowns Ravello with its infinity pool. Monastero Santa Rosa in Conca dei Marini is a 20-room former convent with total privacy.
In Puglia, Borgo Egnazia near Savelletri is the best-known resort, with a big spa. Masseria San Domenico nearby is a fortified farm with a seawater pool. Masseria Torre Maizza, a Rocco Forte hotel, is smaller and polished among olive trees near the coast.
When to Go
Late May to June and September are the best months. The sea is warm, ferries run full timetables and the crowds are lighter than in high summer.
August is the worst time for this route. Italians are on holiday, Capri and Positano are packed and prices peak in Puglia's masserie.
July works if you can handle heat and higher rates. Book well ahead for every stop.
Most Capri and Amalfi Coast hotels close from November to March. April and October are quieter shoulder months, but some boat services are reduced and the sea is cool for swimming. Puglia stays open longer and is lovely in October for olive harvest season, which suits couples who care more about food than swimming.
What It Costs
This is one of Italy's most expensive routes in summer. As an approximate guide, Capri's top hotels such as Hotel Punta Tragara and Hotel Caesar Augustus start around $1,000 a night for two in season, with guesthouses far less. Amalfi Coast luxury hotels often run $1,000 to $2,000 or more in June and September. Puglia's best masserie, such as Masseria Torre Maizza, start around $900, while smaller family masserie cost much less.
The Amalfi to Puglia driver is a significant cost, but it saves a long, complicated train day.
The things worth paying for are a skippered boat on Capri and on the Amalfi Coast, dinner at the Polignano sea cave restaurant and a cooking class. Mix splurge hotels with smaller guesthouses to balance the budget.
Tips for the Two of You
Capri, Positano and Ravello are built on stairs. Pack light and book hotel porters, especially for ferry arrivals.
Summer sun is strong on the coast. Bring hats, reef-safe sunscreen and water shoes for rocky beaches.
Churches ask both of you to cover shoulders and knees, so carry a light scarf or shirt.
The Path of the Gods has steep, uneven sections. Wear proper walking shoes and start early to avoid midday heat.
This route serves different tastes. One of you might hike the Path of the Gods while the other takes a cooking class or a spa morning, then meet for lunch. In Puglia, one could cycle the Itria Valley lanes while the other reads by the pool.
Watch for pickpockets in Naples and on crowded ferries. Late taxis are easy to arrange through your hotel.
Make It Shorter or Longer
With a week, skip Capri and spend four nights on the Amalfi Coast with a boat day to the island, then three in Puglia.
With 14 days, add two or three nights in Rome at the start, taking the train to Naples. Or add a night in Matera itself, sleeping in a cave hotel, to break the drive to Puglia.
In Puglia, add two nights in Lecce or on the Salento coast farther south for more swimming and baroque streets.
Couples who want more islands can add Ischia or Procida from Naples, both quieter and greener than Capri. If you would rather end at the sea than in the countryside, reverse the second half and finish with two nights on the coast near Monopoli or Polignano a Mare.
