Why Honeymoon in North Iceland
The north has the drama of the south without the traffic. Waterfalls such as Goðafoss and Dettifoss rival anything on the Golden Circle. The geothermal fields around Mývatn are more active and stranger than most visitors expect. At many stops you share the view with only a handful of others.
The region also offers a softer side. Akureyri is a pleasant small city with cafes, a botanical garden, good restaurants and a mild microclimate by Icelandic standards. It makes a comfortable base with an airport just minutes from downtown.
Geothermal bathing is a highlight. The Mývatn Nature Baths offer a milky-blue lagoon with a lake view. The Forest Lagoon sits in woods across the fjord from Akureyri. GeoSea in Húsavík lets you soak in heated seawater on a cliff above the bay. Each one is a fine end to a day outdoors.
When to Go
June through August brings near-constant daylight, wildflowers and the peak whale-watching season out of Húsavík. Temperatures are mild, usually in the 50s Fahrenheit. Around Mývatn, swarms of midges appear on calm summer days. Most do not bite, but a head net makes walks more pleasant.
September brings autumn color, quieter roads and the first aurora nights. It is a strong month for couples who want a bit of everything.
From October to March, the north is snowy and dark. Clear, cold nights over the lake give excellent northern lights odds. The baths feel wonderful in freezing air. Some roads close or become impassable after snow, including at times the roads to Dettifoss. Storms can shut mountain passes. Fly into Akureyri in winter rather than driving the full Ring Road.
April and May are shoulder months with lengthening days.
Where to Stay
Split your nights between Akureyri and the Mývatn area if you can. Akureyri has the widest choice of hotels and restaurants, from modern hotels near the harbor to guesthouses in the old town.
Around Mývatn, hotels are fewer and spread around the lake. Rooms facing the water and the craters are worth requesting. Many properties run aurora wake-up calls in winter, a service worth asking about when you book.
Húsavík has a few small hotels and guesthouses near the harbor, convenient for early whale trips.
For a big splurge, Deplar Farm on the Tröllaskagi peninsula northwest of Akureyri is an all-inclusive lodge known for heli-skiing in spring and fishing in summer. It is one of Iceland's most exclusive stays.
Farm stays and cabins with hot tubs are common across the region and offer privacy at a lower price.
Romantic Things to Do
Spend a day circling Lake Mývatn. Walk the lava pillars and arches of Dimmuborgir, climb the rim of the Hverfjall crater for a view over the lake and wander the short paths among the pseudocraters at Skútustaðir. At Hverir, beneath Námafjall, mud pots bubble and steam vents roar. Finish with an evening soak at the Nature Baths.
On the way from Akureyri, stop at Goðafoss, a wide horseshoe waterfall that is easy to reach from the main road.
In summer, take a whale-watching trip from Húsavík. Humpbacks are common in season. Some boats are traditional oak vessels with sails. Afterward, warm up at GeoSea.
Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Iceland. Pair it with Ásbyrgi, a horseshoe canyon lined with birch woods, for a full day.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Keflavík (KEF) from the US. Icelandair offers nonstops from many American cities. From there you have two options.
The first is to fly. Domestic flights from Reykjavík's city airport to Akureyri take about 45 minutes. You will need to transfer from Keflavík to the domestic airport in town, which takes about an hour by road. Rent a car in Akureyri.
The second is to drive. Akureyri is roughly five hours from Reykjavík on the Ring Road. Most couples break the journey with a night on the way or make it part of a full Ring Road loop.
You need a car in the north. Distances are moderate, but public transport is limited. In winter, choose a 4x4 with winter tires, check road conditions every morning and avoid driving in storms. Mývatn is about an hour from Akureyri.
Food and Drink
Akureyri has the best restaurant scene outside the capital, with fresh fish, local lamb and cafes serving cakes and coffee. Try Arctic char from local waters and lamb from the surrounding valleys.
Around Mývatn, look for geysir bread, a dark, sweet rye loaf baked slowly in the hot ground. It is often served with smoked trout or Arctic char from the lake. Dairy farms near the lake also run cafes. A few let you watch the cows while you eat.
Húsavík has seafood restaurants along the harbor. Fish soup after a cold boat trip is a classic.
The north has a few craft breweries producing beer from Icelandic water. Ask for local brews at your hotel bar.
Eating out is expensive, as everywhere in Iceland. Supermarkets in Akureyri are good places to stock up for picnics.
Honeymoon Tips
Give the north at least three nights. Anything less and you will spend most of your time driving.
Book whale trips for your first full day. If seas are rough, you have a backup day.
At Mývatn in summer, pack a head net for midges. They are mostly harmless but irritating on calm days near the water.
Stay on marked paths at geothermal areas. The ground can be thin over boiling water and mud.
In winter, plan around daylight. Midwinter days are only a few hours long, so schedule sightseeing for midday and save the dark hours for baths, dinners and aurora watching.
Ask your hotel about an aurora wake-up call. Then keep warm layers by the door so you can dash out when the sky lights up.
