Why Honeymoon on the Îles du Salut
It is hard to think of a more unusual honeymoon night. You can walk the ring path around Île Royale at dusk as the sea turns silver, listen to the waves on the rocks below the old guard houses and look across a narrow channel to Devil's Island. The history is dark and worth taking seriously. The atmosphere today is peaceful.
The islands also give relief from the mainland. A sea breeze cuts the humidity and the water around Royale and Saint-Joseph is often clearer than along the muddy coast. Wildlife is easy to see at close range. Squirrel monkeys and capuchins patrol the trees and agoutis graze near the paths.
This is not a resort. Accommodation is simple and limited, food is straightforward and there is not much to do after dark except talk, look at the stars and sleep. For couples who love history and quiet, that is exactly the appeal.
When to Go
The dry season, roughly August to November, is the best time. Seas are usually calmer for the crossing from Kourou and paths are drier. September and October tend to be the most settled months.
From December to July, rain is frequent, with the heaviest totals usually around May. The crossing can be rough and wet in poor weather. A shorter drier spell often comes in February and March and can make a pleasant window.
Weekends and French school holidays bring more day visitors from Cayenne and Kourou. For the quietest experience, aim for weeknights.
The biggest planning factor is the launch schedule at the Guiana Space Centre. The islands lie under some flight paths and may be cleared of visitors on launch days. Launch dates also shift, so check the latest schedule and keep your plans a little flexible.
Where to Stay
Overnight options are on Île Royale, which has the only accommodation on the islands. The historic Auberge des Îles du Salut occupies former colony buildings and offers simple rooms. A restaurant serves lunch and dinner. Some rooms are in the restored quarters once used by guards and administrators.
For something more rustic, the inn has offered hammock spaces under open-sided shelters. They are cheap and atmospheric, with the sea breeze and night sounds all around, but bring a mosquito net if one is not provided.
Rooms are few and book up on weekends, holidays and around launches, so reserve well ahead. Expect fans rather than luxury, limited connectivity and basic bathrooms.
If you prefer more comfort, stay in Kourou and visit the islands on a day trip. Kourou has a handful of midrange hotels used by space centre visitors. That approach also makes it easier to combine the islands with a space centre tour.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the path that circles Île Royale. It takes about an hour at an easy pace and passes the old prison blocks, a chapel and viewpoints over Devil's Island. Afternoon light is beautiful on the stone.
Take the shuttle boat to Île Saint-Joseph. Its solitary confinement cells are slowly being swallowed by forest and the silence there is powerful. The island also has a small beach for swimming in calm conditions. Ask locally about currents before going in.
Visit the chapel on Royale, decorated with murals painted by a convict.
Watch for wildlife on the paths: squirrel monkeys, capuchins, agoutis and large iguanas. Do not feed them.
Finish with sunset on the western side of Royale, looking toward the water as the day boats depart. After dinner, the darkness is deep enough for a good look at the stars.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US to French Guiana. Most couples connect through Paris or the French Caribbean into Cayenne's Félix Eboué Airport. From there, Kourou is about an hour's drive west on the N1.
Boats to the islands leave from Kourou. Options typically include a larger passenger catamaran and smaller sailing or motor boats run by local operators. The crossing takes roughly an hour to an hour and a half, depending on the vessel and the sea. Some trips include Île Saint-Joseph and a lap around Devil's Island.
Book your boat in advance, especially for weekends. Confirm departure times for your return, since schedules change with the season and weather.
On the islands, everything is on foot. Paths are uneven and can be slippery after rain, so wear proper shoes. A short shuttle links Royale and Saint-Joseph. Devil's Island is generally closed to landing because of strong currents.
Food and Drink
Dining on the islands is simple. The inn's restaurant on Île Royale serves set meals and dishes based on fish and Creole flavors. Expect hearty cooking rather than fine dining. Confirm meal times since service hours are fixed.
Bring some snacks and plenty of water for walking, plus anything specific you need. There are no shops on the islands.
Back on the mainland, Kourou and Cayenne offer far more choice. Try bouillon d'awara, the Easter-season stew made from awara palm fruit, if you are there at the right time. Everyday favorites include colombo curries, grilled fish with sauce chien and accras, which are small salt cod fritters.
Ti-punch, white rum with lime and cane sugar, is the classic aperitif. French wine is easy to find in supermarkets and restaurants. On Sunday mornings, the Hmong market at Cacao, inland from Cayenne, makes a good stop for soups and fresh fruit.
Honeymoon Tips
Check the launch calendar before you book anything. Then book your room and boat together so the timing matches.
Pack light. You will carry your own bags from the jetty. A small backpack, sandals for the beach and sturdy shoes for the paths are all you need.
Bring mosquito repellent, sunscreen and a hat. The islands are breezy but the sun is strong.
Mosquitoes come out at dusk, especially around the hammock shelters, so cover up in the evening. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for French Guiana before you book.
Cash can be useful, though the inn generally accepts cards. Connectivity is limited, so download maps, tickets and confirmations ahead of time.
Take the history seriously. Read about the penal colony before you go. Papillon is the famous account, though historians question parts of it. It will make the ruins far more moving.
Spend at least one night if you can. Day trips are rushed and miss the best light.