Why Senegal for a Honeymoon
Senegal suits couples who want travel with texture. It is politically stable by regional standards, has a long tradition of peaceful elections and rates as Level 1 with the State Department, with extra caution only for the Casamance region. That makes it one of the more relaxed places in West Africa to explore independently.
The variety is the draw. You can spend a few days in Dakar eating thieboudienne, the national rice and fish dish now on UNESCO's cultural heritage list and catching a live mbalax band. Then head to a lodge in the Saloum Delta where the evening plan is a pirogue ride through mangroves to watch the birds roost. End on a quiet beach in the south.
History runs deep here too. Gorée Island, off Dakar, was a center of the Atlantic slave trade and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many American couples, especially African American couples tracing heritage, find a visit there among the most meaningful moments of the trip.
Best Time to Visit
The dry season, roughly November through May, is the time to go. Skies are clear, humidity is low and the coast is pleasantly warm. Dakar is cooled by the ocean and often sits in the high 70s or low 80s Fahrenheit during the day in winter, with cool evenings that call for a light layer.
December through February also brings the harmattan, a dry wind off the Sahara that can haze the sky with dust. It rarely spoils a trip but can dull sunsets and photographs.
The rainy season runs from about June or July into October. Rain falls in heavy bursts rather than all day, but it brings high heat, humidity, mosquitoes and muddy roads, especially in the Casamance, which gets far more rain than the north. Some lodges in the Saloum Delta and Cap Skirring close for part of this period.
Birders should aim for November through April, when migrants from Europe join resident species in the delta and in the Djoudj sanctuary near Saint-Louis.
Where to Go
Dakar deserves two or three nights. Stay in the Almadies or Ngor area near the westernmost tip of mainland Africa for ocean views and good restaurants, take the short ferry to Gorée Island and visit the vast Pink Lake, Lac Rose, an hour away.
The Sine-Saloum Delta is the honeymoon heart of the country. Our Saloum guide covers the lodges around Palmarin, Mar Lodj and Toubakouta, pirogue trips through the mangroves and the shell island of Joal-Fadiouth.
Cap Skirring in Basse Casamance has Senegal's best beaches, long and palm-backed with warm water. Our Cap Skirring guide explains how to get there, the region's travel advisory and how to explore the Diola villages and creeks nearby.
Other good stops include Saint-Louis, a UNESCO-listed colonial island town on the Senegal River, the Lompoul dunes for a night in a desert tent camp and the Petite Côte around Saly and Somone for easy beach hotels within reach of Dakar.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
Days 1 to 3: Land in Dakar and rest in the Almadies area. On day two, take the morning ferry to Gorée Island, then spend the afternoon at the Village des Arts or a seafood lunch at Ngor. On day three, visit Lac Rose or catch a wrestling match if one is on.
Days 4 to 6: Drive south to the Sine-Saloum Delta, about three hours. Settle into a lodge and spend the days on pirogue trips through the mangroves, a visit to Joal-Fadiouth and sunset drinks by the water.
Days 7 to 9: Fly from Dakar to Cap Skirring or Ziguinchor and spend three nights on the beach. Add a day trip to the Diola villages around Oussouye or a pirogue ride to Karabane Island with a licensed guide.
Day 10: Fly back to Dakar for your connection home.
If flights south are not running, swap the Casamance for two nights in Saint-Louis and a night at the Lompoul desert camps on the way back.
Budget and Costs
Senegal can be inexpensive or surprisingly pricey depending on how much comfort you want. These are rough figures for two and will vary with season and exchange rates.
In Dakar, good mid-range and boutique hotels often run around $100 to $250 a night, with a small number of international business hotels above that. Lodges in the Saloum Delta tend to fall between $100 and $300 a night, frequently including half board since there are few restaurants nearby. Beach hotels at Cap Skirring vary widely.
Food is a bargain if you eat locally. A plate of thieboudienne or yassa chicken at a neighborhood spot costs a few dollars. Dinner for two at a nicer restaurant in Dakar might be $40 to $80 with drinks.
The biggest variable is transport. A private car and driver for road transfers is worth the money and might cost $80 to $150 a day including fuel. Domestic flights to the Casamance add a meaningful chunk to the budget.
Getting There and Around
Blaise Diagne International Airport is about 27 miles east of central Dakar, connected by a toll highway. Allow around an hour to reach the city, longer at rush hour and arrange a hotel transfer if you land late.
Nonstop flights from the US have been offered by several airlines over the years but schedules have been unstable. Check for a current nonstop from New York first. If none is running, Lisbon on TAP, Casablanca on Royal Air Maroc, Istanbul on Turkish and routes through Paris all work well.
Within Senegal, the most comfortable choice is a private car with driver. Shared seven-seat taxis called sept-places link towns cheaply; buying two seats each makes them bearable. To reach the Casamance, domestic flights from Dakar serve Ziguinchor and, at times, Cap Skirring. There is also an overnight ferry between Dakar and Ziguinchor a few times a week. Roads are improving, but driving after dark is best avoided.
Culture and Etiquette
About 95 percent of Senegalese are Muslim, mostly following Sufi brotherhoods and the country is known for a tolerant, easygoing faith that coexists with a sizable Christian minority. Dress modestly in towns and villages, with knees and shoulders covered and save swimwear for the beach. Remove shoes before entering a mosque.
Greetings matter more than almost anything. Start with salaam aleikum, ask how someone is doing and only then get to your question. Shake hands with the right hand, never the left. If someone does not offer a hand, a hand over the heart is a respectful substitute.
Accept attaya when it is offered. The three rounds of tea, each sweeter than the last, can take an hour and that is the point.
Ask before photographing people. Bargaining is normal in markets, but keep it friendly. In Dakar and on popular beaches, expect persistent vendors and would-be guides; a smile and a firm "non, merci" works for both of you. Women may get some unwanted attention, which is usually verbal and fades when you are together. Take a hotel driver or a taxi with an agreed fare after dark rather than walking. Public displays of affection are best kept low key for everyone.
Quick tips
- Bring euros or a debit card for ATMs in Dakar, since cards are rarely accepted outside big hotels and cities.
- Book a private driver for long road transfers; it costs more than a shared sept-place but is far more comfortable.
- Start conversations with a greeting, as rushing straight to business is considered rude.
