Why Honeymoon at El Yunque
Few places let you hike to a waterfall in the morning and lie on a beach in the afternoon without a long drive. Here the rainforest and the coast sit within about half an hour of each other.
El Yunque is lush and green, with tree ferns, palms and flowers growing out of every crack. The forest is home to the coquí, the small tree frog whose two-note call is the sound of Puerto Rico at night. It is also home to the critically endangered Puerto Rican parrot, which conservationists have worked hard to bring back.
Below the forest, resorts in Río Grande offer what many couples want on a honeymoon: big pools, spas, golf and room service. Others prefer rental homes or small inns near the forest, waking up to mist and birdsong. Either way, the mix of adventure and comfort is the draw.
When to Go
It rains in El Yunque all year, often in short, heavy showers. Plan hikes for the morning, when the skies are often clearer.
December through April is the driest and most popular period. Days are warm, evenings are pleasant and the beaches are at their best. Prices are highest around the holidays and in February and March.
May through November is wetter and more humid. Hurricane season runs from June through November, with the highest risk from August through October. Hurricane Maria in 2017 caused serious damage to the forest, though it has largely regrown. Storms can still close roads and trails, so plan flexible days if you travel in the fall.
On the coast, winter brings bigger swells and stronger currents on some beaches. Summer seas are usually calmer. The bio bay in Fajardo is brightest on dark nights around the new moon.
Where to Stay
The Río Grande coast has several large resorts, many with golf courses, spas and long stretches of beach.
- The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort sits on a protected beachfront estate with a golf course, spa and butler service. It is the area's most luxurious option and a favorite with honeymooners.
- Other large resorts along the coast offer pools, casinos, golf and family-friendly facilities. Ask about kid-free pools or quieter wings if you want calm.
For something more personal, look at small inns and guesthouses in the hills around El Yunque. Some have views over the forest and the sea, with simple rooms and a slower pace. Rental homes and villas in Río Grande, Luquillo and Fajardo suit couples who want space and a kitchen.
Fajardo also has a large clifftop resort complex with a private island, popular for its views and water sports.
Romantic Things to Do
- Hike to La Mina Falls, a short trail through the forest to a waterfall pool where you can swim.
- Climb Yokahú Tower or the Mt. Britton Tower for views over the rainforest canopy to the sea.
- Hike to the peak of El Yunque on a longer trail for misty views on a clear day.
- Swim at Juan Diego, a series of small cascades and pools off the main forest road.
- Spend a lazy afternoon at Luquillo Beach, then eat at the row of food kiosks along the highway.
- Kayak Laguna Grande in Fajardo after dark, when tiny organisms make the water glow with every paddle stroke.
- Take a catamaran trip from Fajardo to the offshore cays for snorkeling and a beach lunch.
- Catch a ferry from Ceiba to Vieques or Culebra for a day or a few nights.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport (SJU) in San Juan, which has nonstop flights from more than 30 mainland US cities. US citizens need no passport, since flights from the mainland are domestic.
The drive to Río Grande takes about 40 to 50 minutes, depending on traffic. Resorts can arrange transfers, but a rental car is the best way to explore the forest, beaches and Fajardo. Driving is on the right. Roads are generally good, though mountain roads in the forest are narrow and winding.
The main road into El Yunque's rainforest, PR-191, has used a timed reservation system for vehicles in recent seasons. Check the US Forest Service's website before you go, since rules and hours can change. Arrive early to beat crowds and afternoon rain. Ferries to Vieques and Culebra leave from Ceiba, about 30 minutes south of Fajardo.
Food and Drink
The Luquillo kiosks are one of the best places to eat in Puerto Rico. This row of food stalls along the highway serves fried snacks such as alcapurrias and bacalaítos, plus mofongo, seafood, empanadillas and cold drinks. Go hungry and try a few different stands.
The resorts in Río Grande have restaurants ranging from casual grills to fine dining, often with ocean views. In Fajardo, waterfront restaurants serve fresh fish and seafood near the marinas.
Try mofongo, mashed fried plantains with garlic, often filled with shrimp or meat. Family-run spots do pernil, slow-roasted pork, with arroz con gandules, rice with pigeon peas. Wash it down with a piña colada, said to have been invented in San Juan, or a local rum and a cold Medalla beer. Puerto Rican coffee from the mountains makes a good souvenir.
Honeymoon Tips
- US citizens need no passport for Puerto Rico. Bring a valid government photo ID for flights.
- Check the latest rules for El Yunque, including reservations for the main forest road, before you go.
- Bring rain jackets, quick-dry clothes and shoes with grip. Trails can be muddy and slippery.
- Start hikes early. Afternoon rain is common. Parking fills up on weekends.
- Watch for rip currents on north coast beaches, especially in winter. Swim at protected beaches and follow posted warnings.
- Use insect repellent. Dengue occurs in Puerto Rico. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices.
- Don't wear sunscreen or insect repellent in the bio bay, since chemicals harm the organisms that make the water glow.
