Why Honeymoon in Madeira
Madeira offers serious scenery in a small space. You can hike a cliff ridge in the morning, swim in the ocean after lunch and eat dinner in a historic quinta garden, all within an hour's drive. The island has a long tradition of hosting travelers, dating to British visitors who came for the climate in the nineteenth century, so hotels and service are polished.
It also feels exotic for Europe. Bird-of-paradise flowers and jacaranda line the streets, passion fruit and custard apples fill the markets and the laurel forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a relic of vegetation that once covered southern Europe.
For active couples, it is one of the best walking destinations in the world.
When to Go
Madeira is a year-round destination. April through June brings flowers, comfortable hiking weather and the Flower Festival in Funchal in spring. September and October are warm, with the sea at its warmest for swimming.
Winter is mild and green on the south coast, usually in the mid 60s, though the north side and the mountains are wetter and cooler. New Year's Eve in Funchal is famous for a huge fireworks display over the bay and books up months ahead.
July and August are pleasant but busier. The island is also at risk of wildfires in hot, dry spells; trails can close at short notice. Weather in the mountains changes fast in every season, so check forecasts and webcams before driving up for sunrise.
Where to Stay
Most couples stay in or near Funchal, the most convenient base for restaurants, the old town and day trips. Belmond Reid's Palace has hosted guests on its clifftop since 1891, with terraced gardens, saltwater pools and a famous afternoon tea. Quinta da Casa Branca is a calmer choice, a contemporary hotel set in the gardens of an old family estate. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay offers all-suite rooms with ocean views.
For more seclusion, look at small rural hotels and quintas in Calheta or Ponta do Sol on the sunny southwest coast, or near Santana and São Vicente on the greener, wilder north side. Wherever you stay, ask about parking and the steepness of the access road.
Romantic Things to Do
Drive up to Pico do Arieiro before dawn and watch the sunrise above the clouds. The classic ridge walk from there to Pico Ruivo, the PR1, has had long closures after wildfire and rockfall damage, so check its status before you plan the hike. Even if it is shut, the sunrise from the summit parking area is worth the early alarm.
Walk a levada, one of the irrigation channels that thread across the island. Levada do Caldeirão Verde leads through tunnels to a waterfall, while the 25 Fontes route in Rabaçal ends at a pool fed by dozens of springs.
In Funchal, take the cable car to Monte, visit the tropical garden and ride down in a wicker toboggan steered by two men in straw hats. On the northwest tip, swim in the natural lava pools of Porto Moniz. At Cabo Girão, step onto the glass platform above sea cliffs that drop over 1,900 feet.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US. Most couples connect through Lisbon or Porto, with flights to Madeira taking under two hours. Several European hubs also have direct service. The airport sits on a runway partly built on pillars over the sea and strong winds occasionally cause delays or diversions, so leave buffer time before an onward connection.
Rent a car to see the island properly. Modern tunnels and expressways connect most areas, but local roads are steep and narrow, with tight hairpins. An automatic is worth the extra cost. If you would rather not drive, book a private driver for sunrise and levada days.
To reach the beaches of Porto Santo, take the ferry, about 2.5 hours, or a short flight.
Food and Drink
Order espetada, chunks of beef rubbed with garlic and bay leaf, grilled on laurel skewers and hung from a hook above your table. Black scabbardfish, a deep-sea fish with a fearsome look, is served in fillets with banana or passion fruit sauce. Grilled limpets in garlic butter are a local favorite, eaten with bolo do caco, a flatbread cooked on a stone slab.
Poncha, made with sugarcane spirit, honey and lemon or passion fruit, is the island's cocktail and is far stronger than it tastes. Madeira wine is the classic souvenir: fortified, aged for years in warm lofts and nearly indestructible once opened. Taste a range from dry Sercial to rich Malmsey at one of the historic wine lodges in Funchal.
Honeymoon Tips
Sort out trail fees before you go. Non-residents pay a small per-person fee for many of Madeira's official PR trails, paid online. Some popular routes may also ask you to book a time slot. The rules have changed more than once, so check the regional tourism site for the current system.
Pack for multiple climates. The coast can be warm while the peaks are cold, windy and wet. Bring layers, rain jackets, a headlamp for levada tunnels and sturdy hiking shoes.
Plan one big outing a day. Driving times are longer than the map suggests. Keep a flexible day for weather, since mountain fog can hide views completely. Finally, if beach time matters, add a few nights on Porto Santo, which has a long golden sand beach.
