Why Honeymoon at Lake Skadar
Montenegro's coast is beautiful but crowded in summer. Skadar gives you a different side of the country: farmland, vineyards, fishing villages and birdlife, with very few large hotels.
It is one of the most important wetlands in Europe for birds. Around 270 species have been recorded, including some of Europe's last Dalmatian pelicans. Even if neither of you is a birder, gliding past herons and cormorants in the early morning is peaceful.
The Crmnica valley above the lake has grown wine for centuries. Family wineries pour Vranac, the country's signature red, plus Krstač, its local white, often in a courtyard with homemade cheese and prosciutto.
It suits couples who prefer simple guesthouses and good food to resort amenities.
When to Go
May and June are the best time. The hills are green, water lilies begin to bloom and the heat has not yet built.
September and early October are lovely too, with harvest underway in the Crmnica vineyards and mild days on the water.
July and August are very hot. The lowlands around Podgorica regularly see temperatures in the 90s °F and sometimes higher. Boat trips are best early or late. The lake can feel sleepy in midday heat. Mosquitoes are worst in summer evenings near the water.
Winter brings higher water and rain, with many guesthouses closed or quiet. It is the season for birdwatchers, since migrating birds gather on the lake.
Where to Stay
Virpazar is the main hub, with boat operators, a few restaurants and guesthouses. It is convenient but busy with day-trippers in summer.
For something calmer, look at stone guesthouses and small eco-lodges in the villages above the western shore and in the Crmnica valley, where many families rent rooms with terraces over the vineyards.
Rijeka Crnojevića, a riverside village with an old stone bridge, is lovely for a night or two. It empties out after the day trips leave.
The southern shore around Murići has a small pebble beach and simple places to stay with direct lake views.
Standards range from basic to stylish. Most stays are small family operations. Read recent reviews and confirm air conditioning for summer visits.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a private boat from Virpazar or Rijeka Crnojevića rather than a crowded group cruise. Two or three hours lets you slip through the lily channels, pass fishing villages and stop to swim.
Visit an island monastery. Several, including those on Beška and Starčevo, can be reached by boat or kayak. Some are still home to small communities of nuns or monks. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees.
Drive to the Pavlova Strana viewpoint above the Crnojević River, where it curls around a hill in a horseshoe bend. Sunset there is lovely.
Tour a family winery in the Crmnica valley, then explore the hilltop town of Cetinje, Montenegro's old royal capital, about half an hour away.
Getting There and Around
Podgorica Airport (TGD) is the closest, about half an hour from Virpazar. Tivat Airport (TIV) on the coast is around an hour and a quarter away. There are no nonstop flights from the US, so connect through a European hub or Istanbul. Some couples fly into Dubrovnik and drive down the coast.
A rental car is the best way to explore. Roads around the lake are narrow and twisting, with steep drops in places, so take it slow and avoid driving at night if you can.
The Bar to Belgrade railway stops at Virpazar. Buses run along the main road too, but neither is not practical for reaching villages or wineries.
Boats, kayaks and guided tours handle everything on the water.
Food and Drink
Fish from the lake is the specialty. Look for grilled or baked carp, eel and smoked bleak, a small lake fish often served as a snack with bread and onions.
Family restaurants serve homemade cheese, prosciutto from Njeguši, olives and salads from their own gardens. Portions are generous and prices are low.
Wine is the other draw. Vranac is deep, dark and fruity. Krstač is a dry, mineral white. Several family cellars in the Crmnica valley offer tastings with snacks; call ahead.
For a bigger winery experience, Plantaže's Šipčanik cellar near Podgorica is set inside a former military aircraft hangar dug into a hill. Rakija, the local fruit brandy, is often offered as a welcome.
Honeymoon Tips
Bring cash. Many guesthouses, boat operators and village restaurants prefer euros in cash.
Pack bug spray and long sleeves for evenings, especially from June to September.
Swim from boats or at designated spots. The water is warm in summer but shallow and weedy near the shore.
Agree on boat trip prices before you set off. Ask what is included: swimming stops, monastery visits and drinks.
Combine the lake with the Bay of Kotor, the beaches at Ulcinj or Durmitor National Park. A loop through all three gives you mountains, sea and wetlands in one trip.
Plan the drive. The coastal roads to the lake have hairpin bends, so allow extra time and enjoy the views.
