London, York, the Lake District and Edinburgh in 12 Days

England to Scotland by rail, with a lake and a fire in the middle

12 days4 stops

Original illustration

At a glance

A car-free run up Britain by train: three nights in London, two inside York's medieval walls, three slow nights in the Lake District and three in Edinburgh. Fly into London Heathrow and home from Edinburgh, so you never backtrack. It suits couples who want cities and countryside without driving on the left. Best from May to September, with June and September ideal.

By the Honeymoon Huts editors · How we research

This 12 day UK honeymoon goes from London to Edinburgh almost entirely by train, with four stops: London, York, the Lake District and Edinburgh. You fly into London Heathrow (LHR) and home from Edinburgh (EDI), which has nonstop flights to several US cities, many of them seasonal. No one has to drive.

The shape is city, small city, country, city. London gives you theater and the river at night. York is two hours north, a walled medieval city where you can roll your bags from the station to the hotel. The Lake District is the slow stretch, three nights of lake steamers, fell walks and long dinners in a country house. Edinburgh finishes with a castle on a volcano, candlelit closes and whisky by the fire.

Each transfer takes two to three and a half hours. Book train tickets in advance for the best fares, pack one medium bag each and save the splurge for a Lake District suite with a private hot tub.

The route

Best months: May to September, with June and September the favorites
Trip length: 12 days
Budget: About $300–850 a night for two in boutique to luxury hotels, higher in London (approximate)

Day by day

Days 1–3: London

The Heathrow Express reaches Paddington in about 15 minutes, while the Elizabeth line runs straight through central London for a lower fare. Base yourselves near King's Cross only if you want an easy exit; Covent Garden, Marylebone or Mayfair are more romantic. Plan each day around one neighborhood, since crossing London more than once a day eats hours.

On day 2, ride an Uber Boat by Thames Clippers to Greenwich and climb to the Royal Observatory, then see a West End show or a play at Shakespeare's Globe in the evening. Buy tickets from the theater or the official TKTS booth in Leicester Square.

On day 3, walk the Regent's Canal from Little Venice to Camden past painted narrowboats, or spend the morning at Kew Gardens. Afternoon tea at Claridge's is the classic splurge. Book a free sunset slot at the Sky Garden a few weeks ahead and watch the river light up from 35 floors above the city.

Days 4–5: York

Trains from London King's Cross reach York in about two hours. The station sits just outside the medieval walls, so you can walk to most hotels. Drop your bags and walk the walls between Bootham Bar and Monk Bar, the stretch with the best views of York Minster, as the light goes gold.

On day 5, reach the Shambles by 8 a.m., when the timber-framed houses lean over an empty street. Climb the Minster's central tower for views over the rooftops, then take tea in the Art Deco dining room at Bettys on St Helen's Square. A partner who prefers engines to cake can spend an hour at the free National Railway Museum.

The romantic moment is choral evensong at York Minster. The service is free and the choir sings beneath medieval stained glass, a quieter way to experience the building than daytime touring. Afterward, join an evening ghost walk, which York does with real theatrical flair, or settle into a pub that has served drinks for centuries.

Days 6–8: The Lake District

The train from York to Windermere takes about three to three and a half hours with a change, usually at Manchester or Oxenholme. Some hotels offer pickups from Windermere station. Base yourselves in one place for all three nights: Windermere and Bowness for the most choice, Grasmere for quiet and walks or Ullswater for drama.

On day 7, ride an Ullswater Steamer from Glenridding to Howtown and walk back along the lakeshore path, about three hours and one of the best low-level walks in England. Or climb Catbells above Derwentwater early, then rent a rowing boat from Keswick for an afternoon on the water.

Day 8 is deliberately loose. Visit Dove Cottage in Grasmere, where the Wordsworths lived. Buy warm gingerbread by the church, or tour Hill Top, Beatrix Potter's farmhouse near Sawrey. If it rains, a window seat and a book are part of the pleasure. Book your long tasting-menu dinner for tonight and stay the night upstairs.

Days 9–12: Edinburgh

Trains from Oxenholme reach Edinburgh Waverley in roughly two and a half hours via Carlisle, crossing into Scotland through the hills. Waverley sits in the city center between the Old Town and the New Town, so most hotels are a short walk or taxi away.

On day 10, tour Edinburgh Castle early before the crowds and wander down the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Follow the Water of Leith from Dean Village to Stockbridge and cobbled Circus Lane in the afternoon. Book a whisky flight in a wood-paneled bar near the Grassmarket.

On day 11, climb Arthur's Seat at sunrise, about 45 minutes from Holyrood Park, for a view over the city to the Firth of Forth. Spend the afternoon over seafood in Leith or on the sandy promenade at Portobello. Finish at Calton Hill as the sun sets behind the castle. On day 12, the tram reaches Edinburgh Airport in about 35 minutes from Princes Street.

Getting Between Stops

Heathrow to central London takes 15 minutes on the Heathrow Express to Paddington, with the Elizabeth line slower and cheaper. In London, tap a contactless card or phone on the Tube and buses.

London King's Cross to York is about two hours. York to Windermere takes about three to three and a half hours with one or two changes. Oxenholme, the main-line station for the Lake District, to Edinburgh Waverley takes roughly two and a half hours. Booking each leg ahead gets the best fares and seat reservations.

In the Lake District, buses link Windermere, Ambleside, Grasmere and Keswick. Windermere Lake Cruises connect towns around the lake. If you want quieter valleys, rent a car for a single day, avoiding the steep Hardknott and Wrynose passes if you are nervous drivers. Edinburgh's center is compact and hilly, so walk and use the tram for the airport.

Where to Stay

In London, Claridge's in Mayfair is the grande dame, with Art Deco corridors and a famous afternoon tea. The Savoy has river-view rooms, The Goring in Belgravia is family-owned and Ham Yard Hotel in Soho puts the theaters at your door.

In York, Grays Court is a historic house behind the Minster with its own stretch of city wall in the garden. The Grand, York has a spa in the former railway headquarters near the station. Middlethorpe Hall suits couples who want gardens and quiet.

In the Lake District, Gilpin Hotel & Lake House near Bowness has garden suites with private hot tubs and a Michelin-starred restaurant. The Forest Side in Grasmere and Another Place, The Lake on Ullswater are strong alternatives.

In Edinburgh, The Balmoral on Princes Street has castle-view rooms and a spa. Prestonfield House is a baroque mansion at the foot of Arthur's Seat, ten minutes from the center by taxi.

When to Go

May to September is the best window. Evenings are long, with twilight in Edinburgh lasting past 10 p.m. in June. The Lake District valleys are green with lambs in the fields. June and September are the sweet spots, with September often drier and calmer in the Lakes.

July and August are busiest. Roads and parking around Windermere and Bowness fill early, York's weekends are crowded with day-trippers and hotel prices peak. August is a special case in Edinburgh, when the International Festival and the Fringe fill the city with shows and hotels sell out far ahead at much higher rates.

December brings Christmas markets in York and Edinburgh and Hogmanay at the end of the year, though days are short and the Lakes are raw. January to March is cheapest and quietest. In any month, expect rain in the Lake District, one of the wettest parts of England.

Budget and Booking

Expect roughly $300–850 a night for two in boutique to luxury hotels, with London at the top of that range or above it and York the gentlest. A Lake District suite with a private hot tub and dinner can cost well beyond the top of the range. All figures are approximate and rise in August, on York race days and on December weekends.

Book in this order: Lake District hotel and restaurant, since the best tables sell out weeks or months ahead, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. Then Edinburgh hotels, especially for summer. Then train tickets as soon as fares open for your dates.

Buy timed tickets for York Minster, Dove Cottage and Hill Top online in busy months. Many London restaurants add a 12.5% service charge automatically, so read the bill before you tip. Scottish banknotes are fine in Scotland but occasionally refused in England, which matters little on this route since Edinburgh is last.

Weather and Packing

Pack for rain everywhere and treat sunny days as a bonus. A waterproof jacket, layers and sturdy walking shoes or boots cover the Lake District paths, York's uneven city walls and Edinburgh's steep closes. Cobbles are hard on heels for either of you.

On the fells, check the mountain forecast before any serious hike and tell your hotel where you are going. Helvellyn via Striding Edge is thrilling in good weather and dangerous in poor conditions, so attempt it only with experience and a clear forecast. The wind on Arthur's Seat can also be fierce.

In London, keep phones in a pocket on busy streets, where snatch thefts by people on bikes are the most common crime against visitors. Dress codes are relaxed, except at The Ritz, where jackets are expected for men at afternoon tea. One smarter outfit each covers tasting-menu dinners and grand hotel bars. Pack light for the trains.

Make It Shorter or Longer

With nine days, skip York and go from London to the Lake District by train from Euston to Oxenholme in about two and three-quarter hours. Keep three nights each in the Lakes and Edinburgh.

With 14 days, add two nights in the Scottish Highlands after Edinburgh. Rent a car at Edinburgh Airport and drive through Glencoe to Fort William, or take the train to Inverness. A longer version adds the Isle of Skye for three more nights.

With 16 days, add the Cotswolds or Bath after London before heading north. Bath is about an hour and a half from Paddington by train, with a rooftop thermal pool that makes a lovely first slow stop.

Keep at least three nights in the Lake District whatever you change. It is the only countryside stop on the route. A single rainy day can take one of your walks away.

FAQ

Planning this trip

Can we really do this UK itinerary without a car?

Yes. London, York and Edinburgh are best on foot and by public transport. The Lake District has buses and lake boats linking its main villages. Some hotels collect guests from Windermere station. A car helps only for the quieter western valleys, so rent one for a single day if you want them.

Is 12 days enough for England and Scotland?

It is enough for this route. Twelve days gives you three nights in each city and the Lakes plus two in York, with transfers of two to three and a half hours. It does not include the Highlands or Skye, which need a car and about five more days to do well.

Should we book train tickets in advance?

Yes. Advance fares on long-distance routes like London to York and Oxenholme to Edinburgh are usually much cheaper than buying on the day. They come with seat reservations. Book as soon as fares open for your dates. Make sure each ticket matches a specific train, since advance tickets are often tied to it.

Which is better for a honeymoon, the Lake District or the Cotswolds?

The Lake District has mountains, lakes and real hiking, with country house hotels and long dinners. The Cotswolds are gentler, with golden-stone villages and footpaths between pubs. This route uses the Lakes because they sit on the rail line between York and Edinburgh. The Cotswolds pair better with London and Bath.

Can we do the route in reverse?

Yes. Fly into Edinburgh, which has seasonal nonstops from several US cities, then travel south through the Lake District and York to London. Ending in London puts theater and grand hotels at the finish and gives you more nonstop flight choices home from Heathrow. Both directions use the same trains and take the same time.

Stops on this route

United Kingdom

Edinburgh

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