There is luxury. Then there is the rarer kind of luxury that comes from being genuinely far away. Nihi Sumba belongs to the second category. The resort sits on a crescent of white sand on the southwest coast of Sumba, an island nearly twice the size of Bali that sees a tiny fraction of its visitors. Here the landscape is savanna and jungle and the villages have soaring peaked roofs. The evening entertainment is watching Sandalwood ponies gallop through the surf as the sun goes down.
Nihi has collected a long list of accolades over the years. The MICHELIN Guide has given it three Keys, its highest distinction for hotels. Yet the atmosphere is resolutely barefoot. Floors are sand and villas are built from alang-alang thatch and local timber. Staff greet you by name from the first day. For couples who want their honeymoon to feel like an adventure, with a little rawness and a lot of romance, few places on earth compare.
Highlights at a glance
- Three MICHELIN Keys
- Half-day Spa Safari at a clifftop retreat above a hidden cove
- Swim with horses in the Indian Ocean
- Uncrowded access to the famous Occy's Left wave
- Honeymoon villas with plunge pools and ocean views
- Three daily meals and airport transfers included
Sumba, Untamed
Getting to Sumba is part of the story. After landing in Bali, you take a one-hour domestic flight east to Tambolaka, where a resort safari car meets you for the drive through rice fields, buffalo-dotted pastures and traditional villages to the southwest coast. Within a few hours of leaving the bustle of Bali behind, you will be standing on a beach with almost no one on it.
The resort spreads across a hillside overlooking Nihiwatu Beach, its villas scattered among frangipani and coconut palms. Life follows the rhythms of the island: early-morning surf, long lunches, afternoon naps and evenings spent around the open-air restaurant with its sand floor and deck reaching over the waves.
Villas Built for Honeymoons
Nihi divides its roughly 30 villas and estates by who they are designed for. The honeymoon category is one of the best collections of romantic retreats anywhere. Marangga villas line the coast with private grounds and endless ocean views. Marangga Occy's sits right by the shoreline with its own lawn and direct beach access. Hillrise perches on a hilltop with roughly 270-degree views of the ocean, the beach and the surf.
The most secluded option is Villa Rahasia, whose name means secret in Indonesian. It is set above Nihi's spa site, away from the main resort, with access to its own beach. Across the collection, expect thatched roofs, open-air bathrooms, plunge pools and decks made for watching the ocean. Larger estates and the Treehouse work well for families and groups celebrating together.
Meals Included, Plus a Few Special Splurges
Rates include three meals a day plus non-alcoholic drinks, a daily minibar restock and a daily happy hour, which takes much of the guesswork out of island life. Ombak is the main restaurant, an open-air lounge with a sandy floor and a big deck over the ocean, serving breakfast and dinner. Nio Beach Club, steps from the sand, does lunch with fresh fish, vegetables from the organic gardens, grilled dishes and wood-fired pizzas.
For a celebration night, book Kaboku, a Japanese restaurant serving a seven-course omakase prepared by Japanese chefs, paired with sake and whisky. It costs extra and has a strict cancellation policy. Couples can also reserve The Nest, a private dining spot at the ocean's edge set up for a quiet dinner for two.
Why guests fall for it
The Spa Safari
Nihi's most famous experience may be its Spa Safari, a half-day journey that has become something of a legend among spa lovers. It begins with a trip of roughly three miles from the resort, past traditional villages and rice fields, to a clifftop retreat above a secluded cove.
On arrival, you will be served breakfast or lunch overlooking the ocean, then settle into a private open-air bale for about two and a half hours of treatments. Between massages, you can wander down to hidden beaches or cool off in a freshwater infinity pool. It is wildly romantic. Couples routinely describe it as the most memorable spa experience of their lives. Book it well in advance.
Surf, Horses and Island Adventures
Nihi first made its name with surfers drawn to Occy's Left, a celebrated left-hand wave off Nihiwatu Beach. The resort strictly limits the number of surfers in the water, so the break never becomes crowded; surf slots are allocated daily and must be booked.
Horses are the other great passion here. You can take a riding lesson, gallop along the beach, ride back trails off Nihiwatu, or even swim with horses in the ocean, an experience that is as joyful as it sounds. Nihi's Sumba Horse Project provides free veterinary care to horses in local villages. Other experiences include snorkeling and stand-up paddleboarding, included in your stay, plus village visits, waterfall hikes and ikat weaving lessons.
Why Guests Fall in Love
Guests consistently say Nihi feels unlike any other luxury resort. The remoteness and the sense of a real island beyond the resort come up again and again. Reviews praise how deeply staff seem to care, with many travelers noting they felt like part of a community by the end of the stay.
The Spa Safari, swimming with horses and sunset on the beach are the moments people return to most. The food earns frequent compliments, especially the fresh seafood and produce from the gardens. The honeymoon villas are praised for privacy and ocean views. Many also mention the resort's ties to the local community through the Sumba Foundation as a reason they felt good about their stay.
Good to Know
- Plan on a full travel day between Bali and Nihi, including the domestic flight and the transfer from Tambolaka.
- Included: three meals daily with non-alcoholic drinks, airport transfers by shared safari car, Wi-Fi, laundry, happy hour, yoga, snorkeling and paddleboarding. Alcohol, Kaboku, spa treatments and most excursions are extra.
- The resort welcomes families, with a kids program and pony club, so consider a secluded villa such as Rahasia or Hillrise if you want maximum privacy.
- Surfing is limited to registered guests and capped at a small number at any time, so request a slot as soon as you arrive.
- The dry season, roughly May to October, brings the best surf and sunny skies.
- Sumba is a malaria-risk area, so see a travel clinic before you go. Raise it early if you're pregnant or hoping to be soon.
Insider tips
- Reserve the Spa Safari and Kaboku before you arrive; both have limited availability.
- Ask for Villa Rahasia if you want the most secluded honeymoon setting, or Hillrise for panoramic views.
- Spend a night in Bali before flying to Sumba so a delayed international flight does not cost you your connection.
- Book a horse ride at sunset on your first evening; it sets the tone for the whole stay.
