Baumanière is the Provence honeymoon for couples who plan their trip around dinner. It is a Relais & Châteaux estate of about 20 hectares at the foot of Les Baux-de-Provence, in the limestone hills of the Alpilles and its restaurant, L'Oustau de Baumanière, holds three Michelin stars under chef Glenn Viel. The estate has welcomed guests for about 80 years and has the patina to show it: old stone, deep gardens and rooms furnished with antiques and handmade pieces.
Rooms are spread across five houses rather than one building, each with its own garden and character. There are three swimming pools, a Sisley spa with a hammam and a couples' treatment room, a second restaurant, a wine cellar, even a chocolate workshop. Les Baux, one of the most dramatic villages in France, rises on its rocky spur just above.
It suits food lovers and couples who like a grand old country hotel with real history. It is less suited to anyone who wants contemporary design or a single, compact resort, since the houses are spread out.
Highlights at a glance
- Three-Michelin-star L'Oustau de Baumanière under chef Glenn Viel
- Five houses across a 20-hectare Alpilles estate
- Three swimming pools among the gardens
- Sisley spa with a hammam and a duo treatment room
- Walking distance to Les Baux-de-Provence
Why Couples Love Baumanière
The setting comes first. The estate sits in a valley called the Val d'Enfer, beneath the white cliffs and ruined castle of Les Baux. Olive groves, gardens and cypress trees fill the space between the houses and evenings are quiet except for the cicadas in summer.
Then there is the food. L'Oustau de Baumanière is one of the most celebrated restaurants in France and staying on the estate means you can walk back to your room after a long tasting dinner rather than drive mountain roads. The second restaurant, La Cabro d'Or, is more relaxed but still serious. Couples also mention the feeling of history: this is a family-run estate that has hosted travelers for generations and it feels lived in rather than staged.
Rooms and Houses to Book
Baumanière's rooms are spread across five houses and where you stay shapes the experience.
- L'Oustau is the 16th-century farmhouse at the heart of the estate, with 10 rooms next to the three-star restaurant and the large pool. Book here if dinner is the main event.
- The Manoir is an 18th-century country house about 900 meters away, with 13 rooms and a garden of white roses. It is quieter and closer to the spa.
- Carita (14 rooms) and Flora (12 rooms) share a garden near the Manoir and the spa.
- The Family House sleeps 12 and can be booked as a whole for a group.
Every room is decorated individually, so ask about specific rooms when you reserve. A room at the Manoir with a garden view is the most romantic choice for most couples.
Food, Wine and the Spa
L'Oustau de Baumanière holds three Michelin stars, with Glenn Viel in charge of the kitchen. Its cooking draws on the estate's own gardens and Provençal produce. The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, so plan your stay around it. Book the moment you have dates. La Cabro d'Or, led by chef Michel Hulin, is the second restaurant, with a terrace that is lovely on summer evenings. It closes on Mondays and Tuesdays in the cooler months.
Other experiences include an apéritif in the wine cellar, a drink in the kitchen at La Cabro d'Or, a gourmet date in the garden and workshops with Glenn Viel's team. The Spa Baumanière Sisley has a hammam, six treatment rooms and a duo room for couples, with Sisley facials and body treatments plus a local olive-based line.
Why guests fall for it
Things to Do
Walk up to Les Baux-de-Provence early in the morning, before the day-trippers arrive, to explore the ruined castle and the lanes. Just below the village, the Carrières des Lumières turns a former limestone quarry into a giant digital art show, which is a good choice on a hot afternoon.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, about 15 minutes away, has galleries, cafés and the asylum where Van Gogh painted some of his best-known works. The Wednesday market there is one of the liveliest in the region. Arles, with its Roman arena and Van Gogh connections, is about 20 minutes away and Avignon about 40. Couples who enjoy wine can visit the Alpilles estates, known for reds and olive oil, while hikers will find trails across the limestone ridges. Summer heat is strong, so plan outings for the morning.
Getting There
Marseille Provence Airport (MRS) is about 1 hour away by car. For rail travelers, Avignon TGV station is about 35 minutes by road, with fast trains from Paris taking around 2 hours 40 minutes. Nîmes and Arles stations are also close.
A rental car is the easiest way to explore the Alpilles and the Luberon and it lets you move between the houses on the estate if you are staying at the Manoir and dining at L'Oustau. The hotel can arrange transfers and drivers if you prefer not to drive, which is wise on the night of a long tasting dinner if you are staying in another house. Les Baux is very busy in July and August, so arrive outside the midday rush.
Is It Worth It?
For couples who care about food, yes. Staying at Baumanière makes a three-star dinner effortless and room rates are lower than many expect for a Relais & Châteaux estate of this standing, especially in shoulder season. The hotel advertises autumn midweek stays from about €315, while summer rates are much higher. Treat any figure as approximate. A dinner at L'Oustau will add a large sum on top.
Pick elsewhere if you want modern minimalism or a compact hotel where everything is under one roof, since the houses are spread across the estate. If you want hilltop-village views from the room, La Bastide in Gordes is a better fit. Couples who prefer vineyards around them may prefer Coquillade Provence. For a classic, gastronomic Provence honeymoon with real history, Baumanière is hard to beat.
Insider tips
- Plan your stay so you are there on a night L'Oustau is open; it closes Wednesdays and Thursdays.
- Stay at L'Oustau if dinner is the main event, or at the Manoir if you want quiet and the spa.
- Walk up to Les Baux before 9 a.m. to have the lanes to yourselves.
- Book the wine cellar apéritif for two as a celebration before dinner.
