Two Ways to Explore
On Eleuthera, the car is your key. Many beaches are reached by an unmarked turnoff and a few hundred yards of rough track, which keeps them quiet even in high season. You might start at the Glass Window Bridge, where the dark Atlantic and pale Caribbean sit only a few feet of rock apart, then spend the afternoon on a beach near Governor's Harbour with nobody else in sight.
In Exuma, the boat is the key. The shallow, sheltered water on the banks side stays calm and outrageously clear. A full day with a private captain can hit Pig Beach on Big Major Cay, Thunderball Grotto at slack tide and a sandbar for lunch. On Great Exuma, a car helps for reaching Tropic of Cancer Beach and George Town, but the magic lies offshore.
Both suit couples who like discovering a place on their own terms. Eleuthera hands you the keys and a map. Exuma hands you a captain and a cooler. Think about which sounds more relaxing to the two of you.
Beaches and Water
Eleuthera's beaches are its draw. There are dozens of them. The Atlantic side has pale pink sand and surf, while the Caribbean side stays glassy and green, lovely for sunset. Lighthouse Beach near Bannerman Town, at the end of a rough road in the south, has pink sand below cliffs and an old lighthouse. Surfer's Beach is the place to watch or try a few waves. Respect the Atlantic, since waves at Queen's Bath and some exposed beaches can knock you over without warning.
Exuma's water is calmer and more famous. The sand flats and channels between the cays shift from mint to sapphire as the tide moves. Snorkeling is the main event. Thunderball Grotto, the cave from the 1965 James Bond film, fills with fish when sunlight pours through the roof. Tropic of Cancer Beach on Little Exuma is a long arc of pale sand.
If you mostly want to swim and snorkel in still water, Exuma wins. If you want to walk empty beaches, Eleuthera does.
Where Couples Stay
Eleuthera's hotels are small and low-key, so choose a base by region. In the north near Gregory Town, The Cove Eleuthera sits on a headland between two private coves and is one of the island's most polished hotels, typically from around $650 a night (approximate). Central Eleuthera around Governor's Harbour is the most convenient base, with French Leave Resort's villas above the bay. The south near Rock Sound is the quietest. Beach cottages and villas offer good value for a week.
Exuma's options cover more ground. On Great Exuma, Grand Isle Resort on Emerald Bay has hillside villas with kitchens and a spa, from roughly $500 a night. Up in the cays, Staniel Cay Yacht Club rents waterfront cottages from around $450, with the pigs and the grotto minutes away. Fowl Cay Resort, on its own private island with a boat for each villa, typically starts around $2,000 (all approximate).
In Exuma, many couples split a week between the cays and Great Exuma. On Eleuthera, one well-chosen base usually works.
Getting There
Both islands take a little planning. Eleuthera has three airports. North Eleuthera (ELH) is busiest and closest to Gregory Town and Harbour Island, Governor's Harbour (GHB) serves the center and Rock Sound (RSD) covers the south. Seasonal nonstops from US cities such as Atlanta and Miami have served the island, but schedules change. Otherwise connect in Nassau for a flight of under 30 minutes, or take the Bahamas Ferries fast ferry. Fly into the airport nearest your hotel to save hours of driving.
Exuma International Airport (GGT) on Great Exuma has historically had nonstops from Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Atlanta and Charlotte, some only seasonally. Otherwise take a 40-minute hop from Nassau. Small charters fly straight to Staniel Cay from Nassau and South Florida.
On Eleuthera, a rental car is essential and there is no public transportation. Book it before anything else, since local fleets are small. In Exuma, you need a boat to move between cays. Traffic keeps left on both islands.
Food, Evenings and Local Life
Neither island has a big nightlife scene, which is part of the charm. Eleuthera's social high point is the Friday night fish fry in Governor's Harbour, where locals and visitors line up for fried snapper, cracked conch and mac and cheese, then linger with music. Tippy's, an open-air beach bar on the Atlantic, is the closest thing to a scene. Roadside stands sell conch salad, coconut tarts and pineapple, a reminder that the island once grew the fruit for export.
Exuma's evenings are just as relaxed. George Town has a handful of casual restaurants. On Stocking Island, a water taxi ride away, Chat 'N' Chill serves conch salad and cold Kalik with your feet in the sand and hosts a Sunday pig roast. In the cays, dinner happens at marina bars and resort dining rooms, where the other guests may have arrived by yacht.
Grocery selection is limited and prices are high on both islands. Stock up in Governor's Harbour or George Town if you rent a cottage.
Seasons and Budget
The weather is nearly identical. December through May is sunny and dry, with highs in the upper 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit. April and May are often the nicest months for both, with warmer water and fewer crowds than at Christmas or spring break. Winter cold fronts can stir up the Atlantic side of Eleuthera and cancel boat trips in Exuma, so leave slack in your plans.
August through October is the peak of hurricane season. Several small resorts, restaurants and boat operators on both islands close or trim schedules in September and October, so confirm your hotel and rental car before booking.
On cost, Eleuthera is usually easier on the wallet. Cottages and small hotels can be good value. Your main extra is a rental car and fuel, which costs more than in the US. In Exuma, the big expense is boats. A private captain for a full day runs roughly $800 to well over $1,500 for two (approximate). Most couples want at least one or two.
Combining Eleuthera and Exuma
These two pair well because they offer such different days. There is no regular direct link, so you usually route through Nassau with two short flights. Allow most of a day for the transfer.
A satisfying ten-night honeymoon could start with four nights on Eleuthera, including a day across on Harbour Island by water taxi from Three Island Dock, then fly via Nassau to Exuma for three nights in the cays near Staniel Cay and three on Great Exuma. You get land exploration first and boat adventures to finish.
With only a week, choose one. Eleuthera needs time to drive and explore, since going end to end takes several hours. Exuma needs time to absorb a windy day or two without losing your boat outings. Either way, carry cash for fish fries, water taxis and beach bars. Download offline maps for patchy coverage.
